La cucina eoliana e le sue ricette
Dalle poche notizie che ci danno gli scrittori antichi, la parte predominante della cucina eoliana in età greca e romana doveva essere costituita dal pesce. Diodoro Siculo (V 10, 1-3) dice espressamente che il mare di Lipari “forniva ai suoi abitanti pesci di ogni tipo in gran quantità”. Diodoro vanta anche la fertilità dell’isola di Lipari “ricca di quei frutti che offrono straordinario piacere a chi ne gode”. Ma la cucina liparote fin dall’età greca doveva fare largo uso dei capperi, pianta apprezzatissima dai Greci, che attribuivano ad essa (pur senza esplicito riferimento alla Eolie) virtù medicinali.
Per le ricette della cucina eoliana di età greca, si usavano macine e macinelli, mortai e pestelli di pietra, larghi e pesanti bacili di terracotta con becco di versamento, grossi orci, piccole giarrette e grandi giarre, ciotole e tazze di forme diverse.
In generale la caratteristica della gastronomia eoliana è data dai sapori forti, dall’uso delle erbe e piante aromatiche prodotte da quella natura strana e selvaggia.
Se all’interno si mangia molta carne, particolarmente quella di coniglio, e ottimi formaggi, ricotte e pecorino, sulla costa, il re della tavola è naturalmente il pesce. C’è , comunque, un denominatore comune: il cappero che viene usato volentieri per insaporire (se mai ce ne fosse bisogno) moltissimi piatti. Cominciando dai ravioloni di cernia in salsa paesana o dal risotto nero con calamaretti, si passa ai secondi piatti di pesce: totanetti “ammollicati”, pauro all’acqua pazza, occhiate alla brace, con contorno di peperonata eoliana, caponata liparota e pizzette di melanzane.
I dolci sono quelli tradizionali siculi, perciò , per distinguersi, un dessert eoliano deve essere un bel gelato di frutta accompagnato da Malvasia delle Lipari.
PRIMI PIATTI
Pasta chi pastiddi:
Una pietanza tutta a base di amidi con un tocco aromatico. Le castagne secche (pastidde) bollite in acqua salata con aggiunta di finocchietto selvatico ed, a cottura ultimata,pasta corta.
Pani Cuottu
Un piatto povero, ma con tutti gli ingredienti della dieta mediterranea e qualche proteina in più:
pani caliate (biscottato), pomodori, capperi, aglio, prezzemolo, olio d’oliva, croste di formaggio pecorino, uova (1 per commensale) e… buona zuppa.
Pasta cu mustu
I componenti della dieta elementare: il grano e la vite.Farina impastata con mosto dolcificato con cenere di “Mattole” (rami secchi della vite), striscie di sfoglia (taglierini o catenelle) lessate in mosto dolce.
Pasta chi patieddi, vuccuna, ufali
Il sapore del mare, che si avverte respirandone le acque, si ritrova più intenso nei molluschi che sulle conchiglie ospitano alghe vegetanti. Che si tratti di patelle o altre conchiglie, “l’effetto sapore” è assicurato: mollusco scalogno, filetti di pomodoro, saltati in olio d’oliva con spaghetti al dente.
Niputiddata
Una invenzione gastronomica suggerita dall’erba odorosa appena fuori dalla porta di casa: un misto di sapori intensi soverchiate da quelle acre della nepitella; una zuppa aromatica con foglie di nepeta, aglio, pomodorini, olio d’oliva, scorze di formaggio, uova, tutto versato su un fondo di pane “caliato”.
Pasta ca testa i pisci
Alla pietanza più sofisticata offerta dai ravioli al ripieno di cernia, si oppone quella più essenziale, ma sempre impreziosita dalla “regina del mare”: la manipolazione ridotta all’osso, sughetto di cernia in bianco con le solite erbe, da forse più gusto agli spaghetti.
Pasta cu sucu i pruppu
E’ tradizione Eoliana cucinare in umido tutti gli animali marini, anche quelli che per eccezione comuni si ritengono più portati alla bollitura od alla frittura: il sughetto del polipo ottenuto con la cottura diretta in tegame con pomodoro a filetti, cipolla, e qualche aroma, è un condimento isolano.
Gnotta i scogghiu e maccaruna i mari
Una zuppa gustosissima ottenuta con poveri costituenti: ciottoli di mare ricoperti da al ghetta e maccaruna (alghe flottanti a forma di spaghetto), appena qualche pescetto, se c’è, filetti di pomodoro, e nella fondina del pane caliato spezzettato.
Pasta ncaciata
Si fanno stufare in tegame cipolla e cavolfiore, con un po di vino rosso e un pugnetto di uva passa, lasciando cuocere lentamente.Si condisce la pasta (corta) aggiungendo abbondante formaggio e una spolverata di mollica abbrustolita, infine si mette in forno.
Tagghiarini ch’i fasuli ianchi
Ai fagioli già cotti si aggiungono broccoli lessi, un pesto di aglio e basilic, olio crudo.Si versa tutto su tagliolini fatti in casa che si insaporiscono ancora con pecorino grattugiato.
Bbadduottuli schiuma
Sono cosi’ indicate le palline di mollica di pane cotte nel brodo d’ossa o di gallina. La mollica e il pecorino grattato, aromatizzati con prezzemolo e pepe, si impastano con le uova e si calano nel brodo insaporito con cipolla, prezzemolo e pomodoro.
Pani e caponata
Il pane duro, già tostato, viene ammorbidito in acqua calda, sbriciolato grossolanamente e sistemato in una insalatiera.Si condisce con sale, pepe o peperoncino, aglio, pomodoro maturo, origano, basilico e un pò d’olio.Deve riposare per insaporirsi bene.Si possono aggiungere capperi e cucunci (frutti del cappero), prima dissalati e poi tagliuzzati.
SECONDI PIATTI
Purpetta i pisci
Purpetta e addottoli (polpette e polpettine) di pesce azzurro spinato crudo o cotto: fritte le polpette, in brodo le polpettine utilizzando lo stesso brodo di cottura con erbe.
Frittelli i baccalà cà passulina
Il baccalà nostrano, non è il grande merluzzo dei Mari del Nord, ma un pesce di dimensioni più modeste spinato e salato: spugnato, se ne fanno delle ottime frittelle con una pastella addolcita dall’uva passa priva di semi (passolina).
Frittelli d’ogliammari
Le attinie, animaletti marini dalle molteplici braccia flottanti, non hanno solo proprietà urticanti ma, strano, qualità gastronomiche: se ne fanno gustose frittelle mescolandole ad una semplice pastella.
Piscitedda friuti cù l’acitu
Pesciolini del genere zatterino o anguilla e avannotti d’altra specie (ciciredda, corina) fritti a padellate e aromatizzati con aceto e mentuccia come si usava conservarlo per il commercio esterno.
Crastuna ammuddicati
Lumaconi raccolti nell’orto di casa, “spurgati” e lessati con cui si fa un piatto stuzzicante con la seconda cottura in padella soffritti con aglio, filetti di pomodoro ed alla fine una manciata di pangrattato e formaggio.
Cunigghiu all’agruduci
Il tipico piatto delle feste. Una carne che come quella di altri animali da cortile e selvatici, si sottopone a preliminare sbollentatura in acqua acidulata; poi soffritto con farina in abbondante cipolla ed, apoteosi finale, in infusione di vino cotto,mandorle ed uva passa.
Pollo friutu ca cannedda
Una pietanza arabizzante: pezzi di pollo sbollentati, pressati ed infarinati con abbondante polvere di cannella e zucchero.
Sanguanazzu ‘i maiali cà passulina e mennuli
Il sangue di maiale raccolta dalla macellazione, si raddensa con la bollitura, misto a spezie, passolina, mandorle, vino cotto e se ne fanno dei salsicciotti da conservare. Si mangia a fette anche fritto con la cipolla.
Sasizza ‘i casa cù finucchieddu e vinu d’amarina
La salsiccia tradizionale”i casa” è quella che mette in luce più d’ogni altra il sapore della carne di maiale,: carne poco grassa tagliata col coltello, pepe, sale, semi di finocchio selvatico ed aromatizzata con vino dolce alle foglie d’amarena.
Picciuna chini arrustuti
Un ripieno di mollica condita con formaggio ed erbette ed addolcita con uva passa, per questo arrosto di piccione o di colomba domestica.
Nsalata i pani caliate
Un ottimo antipasto di antichissima tradizione: il pane “caliate”, appena spugnato, condito con un filo d’olio d’oliva, poca quantità di conserva di pomodoro, spicchi d’aglio e basilico fresco.
Funci e mulinciani a funcitedda
Verdure diverse ma metodica di preparazione uguale: tocchetti di verdura salati se si tratta di melanzane, appena nettati se funghi, soffritti con aglio, filetti di pomodoro, basilico e finiti con una spolverata di pangrattato e formaggio.
Mulinciani agruduci
Le verdure trattate come un piatto di mezzo: fette di melanzane molto spesse, salate, fritte e ricoperte da una salsa di cipolle, pomodorini, capperi e trattate con aceto e zucchero.
Carcioffuli chini
Un altro secondo piatto realizzato con verdure: carciofi liberate dalle brattee più legnose, ripieni fra una foglia e l’altra di mollica condita con formaggio, olio d’oliva, capperi, aglio e prezzemolo;messi a stufare in piedi e ben accostati in tegame.
Spezzatino di fave piselli e carciofi
Va soffritta la cipolla prima di metterli in tegame, aromatizzando con basilico o nepitella; a cottura ultimata si potevano aggiungere delle uova intere.
Favi cunzati
Lessate le fave si condiscono con olio, aglio e origano, oppure, unite alle patate, si aromatizza con olio, aceto e origano.
Bbadduottuli di melanzane
Lessate prima le melanzane, si preparano delle polpette con pangrattato, aglio, prezzemolo, pepe, amalgamando con uovo e poi friggendo.Per la salsa si rosolano abbondante cipolla, pomodori, capperi, basilico e infine si versa aceto e zucchero.Quest’agrodolce serve anche per condire, e conservare qualche giorno, le fette di melanzane fritte.
Verdure selvatiche in padella
Rapuddi, lazzini, cosci o crosti i vecchia, cardidda e finocchi (tutte verdure spontanee di sapore oscillante fra il dolce e l’amarognolo) venivano prima lessate e poi soffritte in padella con aglio, pomodoro, alloro e cutina(cotenna) di maiale (facoltativa l’aggiunta del peperoncino).
Insalata di capperi
I capperi, in grande quantità, devono essere scottati in acqua bollente, poi lavati con aceto e infine conditi con olio, sedano e carota cruda, oppure con olio, aglio, prezzemolo, uva passa e peperoncino, o ancora con olio,aglio, origano e foglie di menta.
Coniglio alla cacciatora
Bollire prima con aceto, rosolare poi con malvasia o vino bianco, quindi soffriggere in olio aggiungendo molta cipolla, un po’ di malvasia, rosmarino, salvia, capperi, basilico, pepe, o peperoncino.
Coniglio al sugo con patate
Sbollentare con succo di limone e foglie di alloro, togliere l’acqua e sfumare con vino bianco;quindi rosolare nell’olio aggiungendo poi salsa di pomodoro, cipolla, alloro, peperoncino, patate a pezzi. Quasi a fine cottura profumare con foglie di basilico. Con il sugo si condiva la pasta nei giorni di festa.
Coniglio alla brace
Prima bollire i pezzi di carne, passarli poi in olio e limone, quindi nel pangrattato aromatizzato con pecorino e pepe, arrostire infine inumidendo con un intingolo di olio, aceto e pepe nero.
Variante b. I pezzi di carne si steccano con un battuto di erbette(salvia,rosmarino,prezzemolo), aglio e pecorino; si ungono d’olio sia prima che durante la cottura.
Gallina farcita (iaddina china)
Il ripieno è costituito da pangrattato,pecorino, prezzemolo e tritato di maiale (che può essere sostituito da riso bollito e uova sode a spicchio) Una volta farcita, la gallina viene cotta nel brodo o nel sugo di pomodoro e poi servita a fette.In modo identico si può preparare la trippa ( a ventri china), ma si possono sostituire al riso piselli e mortadella.
Gallina alla brace
Dopo aver sbollentato i pezzi di carne steccare come per il coniglio e aggiungere passolina.
Sanguinaccio fritto o arrostito
Niente nel maiale si perdeva nell’alimentazione tradizionale.Il sangue veniva cucinato in modo da assumere un sapore molto gradevole, anche se al nostro palato può risultare difficile gustare una pietanza che prevede la frittura in padella con cipolla o la cottura alla brace di fette di sanguinaccio dolce.Per prepararlo si mette a bollire il sangue in una pentola con uva passa, noci, mandorle abbrustolite, zucchero e vino cotto, mescolando continuamente per evitare grumi.
U sutta e supra a spezzatino
Si indicano cosi’ delle costate di maiale, non troppo magre né eccessivamente grasse, che si cuociono in tegame, dopo averle rosolate nel vino bianco, con salsa di pomodoro aromatizzata con cipolla, aglio, basilico, alloro, peperoncino e aggiungendo infine le patate.
Ragù di maiale
Si possono usare pezzi di carne e/o salsiccia (aromatizzata con pepe e semi di finocchio oppure condita con pomodoro, formaggio e indiuia).Soffriggere l’aglio, poi la carne aggiungendo vino o aceto;togliere il liquido, versare la salsa di pomodoro (condita come sopra), infine unire piselli e/o patate.Il sugo serve a condire maccarruni e tagghiarini.
Capra al ragù
I pezzi di carne vengono preventivamente bolliti, poi rosolati nel vino, quindi soffritti con aglio, cipolla, alloro, prezzemolo, scorza di limone, infine si fanno cuocere lentamente nel sugo di pomodoro.Il ragù è ottimo per condire la pasta.
Capretto infornato
Si aromatizzano i pezzi di carne, prima rosolati nel vino e poi soffritti nell’olio, con rosmarino, aglio, pepe o peperoncino, foglie di basilico.Nella teglia messa in forno si aggiungono a tempo debito le patate di contorno (in alternativa il contorno poteva essere un soffritto di verdure selvatiche vedi sopra).
Budella di gallina agnello e capretto
Dopo averle accuratamente lavate con acqua, sale e limone, le budella (stigghiola) si avvolgevano con il prezzemolo e cipolletta fresca e quindi si arrostivano sulla brace.In alternativa, si bollivano e poi si friggevano insieme a patate, cipolle, pomodori e foglie di alloro.
Seppie al sugo nero
Si soffriggono cipolla, aglio, le cime più tenere del finocchietto selvatico e pezzetti di seppia aggiungendo poi salsa di pomodoro e pepe nero.Si può condire la pasta.
“Gnotta” o “suppa” (zuppa)
Sono considerati adatti alla zuppa: cernia, scorfano, tracina, occhiata, cuocciu (varietà di capone), munacedda russa (castagnola), precchia o bbuddacina.Si cuociono in un sugo ristretto a base di cipolla e aglio soffritti, abbondante prezzemolo e basilico, pezzetti di pomodoro fresco o salsa sedano e capperi.La gnotta si accompagnava con il pane caliate.Oggi si usa per condire gli spaghetti.
Pescespada a zuppa
Con gli stessi ingredienti ma sostituendo le olive ai capperi.Arrostito alla brace con salmoriglio di olio, limone, origano e spicchi d’aglio.
Tonno a spezzatino
Sfumare con vino bianco, quindi cuocere con cipolla e aglio soffritti, salsa di pomodoro, prezzemolo, origano e abbondante basilico(con il sugo si condisce la pasta); lattume, fegato e uova si cucinavano analogamente con cipolla, pomodoro, capperi e olive.
Tonno ripieno
Le fette di tonno si farciscono accoppiandole, con mollica, capperi prezzemolo e aglio amalgamati con olio; si passano prima nell’uovo, poi si friggono e infine si cuociono in tegame con la salsa di pomodoro(condimento per la pasta).Variante; le fette farcite si arrostiscono alla brace.
Arrosto Le fette di tonno vengono arrostite sulla brace e inumidite con salmoriglio di olio, limone, pepe nero e foglie di menta.
Rizzi, maccarruna i mari(alghe filiformi), uova di boga
Si mangiavano crudi con succo di limone,fritto in pastelle, dopo averlo sbollentato l’ogghiammari (garofano di mare) crude oppure impanate e arrostite le patelle.Patelle e vuccuna lavati in acqua di mare e sbollentati,saltati in padella con pomodoro(oppure, cipolla, prezzemolo e basilico) e sfumati con vino bianco, si cuociono infine nel loro stesso liquido con o senza guscio;
I lausti (aragoste) vanno lessate con fette di limone e foglie d’alloro e poi condite con olio e limone;quelle di piccole dimensioni si fanno saltare in padella per condire la pasta.Bolliti o fritti si preparano gli ufali (lumachine di mare).
A tartuca
Molto più elaborata la ricetta della tartaruga di mare. Si lasciava morire lentamente la tartarugha dissanguandola ventiquattro ore prima di cuocerla; dopo avere eliminato il guscio e le interiora si tagliava a pezzi che si facevano bollire con molta scorza di limone per circa mezz’ora; si eliminavano quindi la pelle e le parti nere e callose, riducendo la carne in tocchetti, questi venivano poi soffritti in padella con olio, molta cipolla, foglie d’alloro, spicchi d’aglio appena schiacciati, sfumando con abbondante vino bianco.A questo punto si aggiungeva salsa di pomodoro e si proseguiva la cottura, versando quasi alla fine vino cotto, pinoli, mandorle spellate passolina e aggiustando con sale,pepe o peperoncino.
DOLCI
Nacàtuli
Il ripieno è a base di mandorle macinate, zucchero, tuorli d’uovo impastati con margarina o strutto e aromatizzato con passolina e abbondante polvere di cannella.La sfoglia è di farina amalgamata con uova, zucchero e margarina, deve essere tirata sottilissima per consentirne la lavorazione in piccole forme prima di infornare.
Spicchiteddi
Impasto composto da farina, zucchero, cannella macinata, chiodi di garofano, zenzero amalgamato con vino cotto e strutto, si modellano delle roselline guarnite con mandorle e poi si mette in forno.
Giggi
Gli ingredienti sono: farina, strutto, uova, zucchero e un po di lievito amalgamati con vino bianco (in alternativa con malvasia o latte); si puo aromatizzare con scorza di limone grattugiata. Si lavora l’impasto sino a renderlo morbido ed elastico per ricavarne bastoncini di media grandezza; questi vengono divisi a tocchetti che possono essere fritti o infornati:S i passano infine nel vino cotto di malvasia.Forma diversa ma identica sostanza avevano i sfugghiati che si preparavano anche in occasioni diverse dal Carnevale.
Sfinci
Sono due tipi di frittelle:più semplici quelle d’uova, preparate anche per l’annunciazione si procede come per la pasta squadata, ma con l’aggiunta di alcune uova intere; si mettono a friggere in abbondante olio finchè non si giunge a doratura e si spolverano infine di zucchero.Maggiormente elaborate quelle ca cucuzza gialla( con la zucca); bollire e scolare bene la zucca ridurla in crema omogenea e mescolarla a farina, lievito, passolina e rosmarino; lasciare riposare l’impasto, friggere in conclusione passare le frittelle nello zucchero (oppure nel vino cotto o nel miele).
Cudduri
Recati in dono soprattutto ai bambini , hanno forma di panierino contenente alcune uova bene in vista. Altri, modellati a forma di cuore con le uova celate all’interno dell’impasto, sono destinate agli adulti.La loro composizione è simile a quella dei giggi, ma si infornano e decorano con confettini rossi e/o argentati.
Durci di casa
Impasto a base di farina, uova, zucchero, cannella e scorza grattugiata di limone; si modellano a forma di fiore e vengono infornati.
Pasta squadata
Acqua e farina in eguale proporzione si fanno bollire lentamente con un pizzico di sale, zucchero e olio, mescolando finchè non si formi un composto omogeneo; questo si versa in un ripianoe appena freddo s’impasta, aggiungendo olio, con cannella e rosmarino.Si ricavano piccole forme floreali che si friggono e si servono spolverate di zucchero (o con zucchero, cannella e rosmarino finemente tritati).
Mostarda cà cinniri e mennuli
Si tratta, questa volta di vino cotto in assoluto, dolcificato con la solita cenere di “mattole” e addensato sul fuoco con farina di grano o amido.Le mandorle (mennuli) abbrustolite sono, nelle firmette in cui si raffredda la “mostarda” una guarnizione che può completarsi con polvere di cannella.
Pasticciotti cà marmellata ‘i cocuzza
Una sfoglia di pasta elastica e morbida, ben manipolata, tagliata a dischi:Sul disco inferiore si sparge la marmellata casalinga che si ricopre con il secondo disco.La leggerezza della sfoglia, il poco spessore, è garanzia della “delicatezza” del prodotto finale.
Ricette a base di capperi (a cura di Italiana Capers Sud s.r.l)
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